2022 June List | 2022 六月清單

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We bid farewell to Okinawa. I’m grateful for our friends who threw us a going away party, and even sent us off at the airport. Three years in Okinawa flew by, and we made so many great friends here that made our life in Okinawa eventful! We’ve been back in California for 3 weeks now, and the sun here hasn’t been very kind, almost making me miss the cool rainy days during our last few weeks in Okinawa.

我們離開沖繩了！謝謝朋友們對我們這麼好，不但幫我們辦歡送會，還來機場送我們。回憶起在沖繩的這三年，能在沖繩認識這麼多好朋友，讓我們的生活過的精彩！我們現在搬來加州，這裡的太陽對我們實在很不客氣！突然有點想念離開沖繩前一直下雨的日子。

Little Lapin | Lapin 小車

Selling my beloved Lapin really hit me that we were actually leaving Okinawa. When we first moved here, I immediately fell in love with the look of Lapin! The resale value on my car was great too! We got numerous interested buyers moments after we posted it online. Thank you for serving us so well the last three years, going everywhere in Okinawa with us, and letting us find precious parking spots along the Seawall. I love you and will miss you dearly Lapin!

哎，真的是要和沖繩說再見了。賣掉我的沖繩愛車那剎那，好心疼！到沖繩時，我一看到這台Lapin小車，立刻愛上！轉賣價錢也非常優秀，我們放上網賣車時，竟然出乎意料的收到一堆訊息。謝謝Lapin小車對我們這麼好，帶我們整個沖繩跑透透，還能在好擁擠的Seawall能找到車位。我愛你，Lapin小車！

TJ Tacos

802 E Valley Pkwy, Escondido, CA 92025
http://www.tj-tacos.com/

Every time we arrive in San Diego, the first meal is always Mexican food! If you’ve never had tacos in San Diego, you’ve never been to San Diego. The tacos here are Baja California style, my favorite type of Mexican food. In Northern San Diego, our go-to is TJ Tacos. Here you will find grilled tortilla overstuffed with meat, cilantro, and drenched in salsa; getting your hands dirty and making a mess is the respectful thing to do. Horchata and soda are perfect companions for your tacos. Our favorite meats are: carne asada, adobada, and langua.

每次回來聖地牙哥，第一站絕對是吃墨西哥食物！來San Diego沒吃tacos就等於沒來過！這裡的tacos大部分是Baja style，也是我們最愛的墨西哥食物之一。北邊聖地牙哥，我們的最愛絕對是TJ Tacos滿滿的肉和醬汁把手弄的油膩膩是吃tacos的基本禮儀（哈哈哈），horchata和汽水是必點飲料。我們每次會點的肉類：asada, adobada, lengua.

Joe’s Crab Shack

314 Harbor Dr, Oceanside, CA 92054
http://www.joescrabshack.com/locations/10159/

After eating king crabs in Hokkaido, we continue to eat crabs here in the US. Not as juicy and tender as in Japan, but the Old Bay seasoning is mouth watering enough. Outside of the restaurant is a harbor lined with sailboats and yachts. Taking a leisurely stroll along the piers and soaking in the Vitamin D from California sunshine is a relaxing way to spend the afternoon. Be sure to put on adequate sunscreen!

在日本吃螃蟹，回來美國繼續吃螃蟹！雖然不像日本這麼鮮嫩多汁，但吃到old bay口味的海鮮煮法還是讓我們流口水。餐廳外面排著滿滿的帆船，吃飽後在附近走走享受加州陽光（記得擦防曬），舒服極了。

Shancheng Lameizi Hot Pot | 山城辣妹子

4225 Convoy St, San Diego, CA 92111
http://www.shanchenglameizi.com/

Convoy Street is the Asian kitchen of San Diego. I used to come here with my upperclassmen when I was in college here. This time, we came with our family to challenge the spicy hot pot, but we were left defeated, by even the least spicy level. There is an all-you-can-eat dessert bar for you to rest your overworked palette before you get back into the fight. The purple rice porridge is definitely my favorite!

聖地牙哥的Convoy St.聚集一堆亞洲美食，我在大學時學長學姊常帶我們來這裡覓食。這次和家人來吃麻辣火鍋，竟然被小辣打敗！在山城辣妹子，中場休息時有無限甜點解辣，紫米粥絕對是最吸引我的部分！

One Day in Sapporo | 札幌一日遊

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（中文翻譯請往下滑）

Other than its namesake beer, Sapporo is also known for its Snow Festival, but this year it remains discontinued due to the pandemic. We were thus forced to cancel our plan to attend the Sapporo Snow Festival at the beginning of the year. But this time before we left Hokkaido, we decided to do a day trip in Sapporo.

Public Transportation

The express bus from New Chitose Airport to Sapporo downtown takes about 40 minutes. You can purchase the tickets inside the airport and then wait by the bus stop, the cost is less than 2000 yen per person, very cost efficient.

Accommodation

すすきのグランベルホテル
https://www.granbellhotel.jp/susukino/

What a delight to sleep in such a comfortable bed after our campervan trip! UN and I highly recommend this hotel. Very reasonably priced, the hotel room is spacious enough to let us spread open all of our luggages, and best of all, there is an onsen built in on the top floor of the hotel. UN and I both agree that you get a lot of bang for your buck at this hotel!

Restaurants and Sightseeings

We may have been too amazed by the comfort of our hotel room that we ended up not having enough time to check out Hokkaido University and Hokkaido Jingu, I guess we will have to save these for the next time. But as always, food crawl is something that we never miss. First time trying soup curry, big thumbs up! At first we thought soup curry was just curry with water added to make it soupy, but how gravely mistaken were we! UN and I were pleasantly surprised by the richness of the broth and the sweetness of the various Hokkaido-grown root vegetables. We tried a few soup curry places, and picked out our favorite two.

Suage+

The first soup curry place that we tried was vegetable soup curry. The recommended spice level is 3, just mildly spicy, but still enjoyable. They also sell their own curry packets so that you can enjoy soup curry at the comfort of your own home.

Soup Curry GARAKU

Our friends A&W recommended this place to us, and it turned out to be our favorite soup curry place. But the level 3 spice here does not translate to the level 3 spice elsewhere. We felt like our whole mouth was on fire and could hardly speak. The four young college kids next to us were all sweating profusely. Highly recommend that you order a lasi on the side to tame that spice level! I imagine this soup curry warming up your entire body in the cold Hokkaido winter. We too ordered vegetable soup curry here, expecting the broth to taste somewhat similar, but it's actually prepared with different spices and tasted differently.

牛たん焼き仙台・辺見

Don’t hesitate and just order the thick sliced beef tongue! Some scallion, a pinch of salt, and a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon juice dressing the thick slab of beef tongue, and the crunchy sound as this symphony of umami fills your palate, will leave you wishing you had ordered more!

Hokkaido Soft Serve

Even in May, Hokkaido still feels chilly, roughly 40F. Still you see many people wearing sweaters or puffer jackets while enjoying Hokkaido soft serve. Almost any place that you go to is going to be good. No need to search for the best one, if you see one, just get it!

New Chitose Ramen Street: Shio Ramen

We thought shio (salt) ramen would be very salty, but boy were we wrong! The broth flavor is well balanced, not too greasy, and not too plain either. Due to time constraints, we weren’t able to eat Hokkaido ramen in Sapporo city, but thankfully there is a whole ramen dojo inside New Chitose Airport. This place houses 10 of the highly popular Hokkaido ramen restaurants, allowing last-minute travelers the opportunity to savor Hokkaido shio ramen before their flights.

Sapporo TV Tower

The night view from up here is just average, not much to see tbh. Would not recommend, can skip.

Sapporo Clock Tower

Built in 1878, Sapporo Clock Tower tells the story of Western influence on Sapporo. We planned on touring the inside, but overslept (surprise, surprise!) So after dinner, we could only walk along the outside of the tower. But even then, it was still beautiful. At night, there were many photographers with their tripods set up in front of the beautifully-lit clock tower.

Part of our original plan was to get up early to visit Nijo Market. But we slept in till the last minute, and only had time to rush to the airport. We saved some sites for our next Sapporo trip. Sapporo one day trip - checked!

札幌除了啤酒超有名，每年的雪季也是揚名內外，很可惜今年因疫情札幌雪季繼續無法進行。原本年初想來札幌雪季的我們也只好取消行程，但我們這次趁離開北海道前，決定來個札幌一日遊。

交通工具

從新千歲空港到札幌市中心有快捷巴士，大約40分鐘就能到市區。先在站牌附近（機場內）買好車票，一人不到2000日幣，快速又方便。

住宿

すすきのグランベルホテル
https://goo.gl/maps/eMahwAcK4Gvifznx7

結束露營車後能睡到這麼舒服的床，我和UN大推薦這家飯店，價錢合理、房間夠大讓我們把大行李箱打開，頂樓還有很完善且有設計感的溫泉澡堂。我和UN入住後都覺得這價錢和設備實在是太不可思議了！

餐廳和景點

由於我們到房間後倒頭就睡，只能把北海道大學和北海道神宮留到下次。依照一貫作風，我們還是以吃為主。第一次吃到湯咖哩，好吃耶！以字面來看，原以為湯咖哩就是把咖哩煮太稀，但竟然湯頭非常香濃，且配上滿滿的北海道爆甜根莖類蔬菜，我和UN都對這湯咖哩稱讚不已。試了幾家湯咖哩店，我們選出最愛的兩家店。

Suage+

第一家嘗試的湯咖哩店，我們選的是野菜口味，三號辣度是店家推薦的，不會過辣，吃得非常舒服。店家也有賣湯咖哩包，能在家裡享用。

Soup Curry GARAKU

好友A&W推薦的湯咖哩店，也是我們比較下來最喜歡的一家，但店家推薦的三號辣度未免也太辣了吧！辣到我和UN講不出話來，隔壁四位壯漢也被這辣到汗流浹背，絕對要點一杯lasi滅火！冬天來吃應該非常暖身吧！這家我們也點野菜口味，原以為這些湯咖哩店味道會大同小異，但不只香料味不同，湯的口感也不一樣。

牛たん焼き仙台

進店後別猶豫，直接點厚片牛舌！鹽蔥加點檸檬汁配上肥厚適中的厚牛舌片，清爽的咀嚼感，你絕對會想再多點一盤！

北海道冰淇淋

五月的北海道體感溫度約華氏40幾度，但我們還是要穿發熱衣吃超濃郁冰淇淋。這裡的冰淇淋隨便一家都好好吃，絕對不需查人氣排行，看到就吃就對了。

北海道拉麵道場：鹽味拉麵

原先以為鹽味拉麵會非常死鹹，但完全大錯特錯！高湯味十足，湯頭不油膩，也不會過於清淡。由於時間關係，我們沒機會在札幌市區吃到拉麵。如果你也和我們一樣沒吃到拉麵（別哭），新千歲機場有北海道拉麵道場，結合北海道超有名的十家拉麵店，讓旅客們在最後一秒還是能吃到超美味的北海道鹽味拉麵。

Sapporo TV Tower

這夜景有點普通，能看夜景的範圍也不大，不是特別推薦的一個景點。

Sapporo Clock Tower

門票200日幣。建於1878年，詮釋北海道首都札幌充滿外國和日本歷史文化結合。原先計畫進去參觀，但我們睡過頭（不意外）！晚上吃飽飯後在外面參觀，許多專業攝影師架好腳架拍攝。

原本我倆想起個大早去二條市場，但睡到最後一秒才起床，只能梳理後直接去機場。留了幾個景點好讓我們有機會能再來札幌一趟，札幌一日遊完畢！

Niigata: Hidden Gem in Japan | 新瀉：好多秘密景點

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Once we had Sukiyabashi Jiro, I knew I had to visit the rice capital of Japan, Niigata. I am not normally the biggest fan of rice, but since moving to Japan, rice has become a daily staple for me. Japanese rice is in its own league, with its fragrance and perfect firmness! If you search online for what to do in Niigata, you may not find much, but it’s definitely a hidden gem. In planning this trip, I want to thank my acupuncturist and Lonely Planet.

Transportation

https://www.jreast.co.jp/multi/en/pass/eastpass_n.html

We booked JR East Pass online in advance, and picked up our 5-day pass at Narita Airport. To pick up the pass, you will need to show your foreigner’s passport. JR East Pass is a convenient and economical way to travel, it covered most of our trip with the exception of within Niigata City and in Echigo Yuzawa. 

Day One

Our first night we stayed in Tokyo. I had bookmarked many restaurants around our lodging. We wanted to get beef katsu and Taiwanese grass jelly in the morning before our Shinkansen to Niigata. The train ride was very scenic and fast. Niigata is definitely worth visiting and I wish we could stay there longer.

  • Gyukatsu Motomura: The line is long even in the pandemic. Come early if you don’t like waiting in line. The price is very budget friendly. Lunch special is only 1300 yen, and comes with 130g of beef katsu, rice, miso soup, cabbage salad, potato salad (my favorite), and pickles. They recommend 3 ways to enjoy beef katsu: house yama-wasabi sauce, wasabi soy sauce, and rock salt (our favorite). You use a grill plate in front of you to grill the beef katsu.

  • Heigonghao: So hard to resist Taiwanese sweets, especially given how long we haven’t visited Taiwan. We ordered hot grass jelly and douhua (sweet tofu). Personally I think douhua could be a little sweeter, maybe it’s because of my Tainan sweet tooth, haha!

Tokyo to Niigata by Shinkansen is roughly two hours. Along the route you will see rice fields as well as snow-covered mountains. Once we arrived at Niigata, we went straight to the Ponshukan inside the station for sake tasting.

  • Ponshukan: Ponshukan is highly recommended by everyone I talked to, as well as in travel books and on the internet. For 500 yen, you can taste up to 5 different kinds of sake, for someone lightweight like myself, can get somewhat tipsy. If you are a sake connoisseur, 5 shot glasses may not be enough, but you can find a sake you like, and then buy the bigger bottle!

  • Sekai Sushi: A must order item here is Nodokuru Don. Every bite of fresh fish with locally grown rice is umami. I still miss it till this day. UN ordered omakase, and we really liked it also. This restaurant is definitely worth visiting!

Day Two

Original plan was to visit Sado island, but the weather forecasted a huge snow storm, and the hotel staff gently yet assertively (in a very Japanese way) suggested that we change our plan lest we get stuck on Sado island. So instead, I listed out all of my bookmarks in Niigata city.

  • Tsumugu Coffee and: a waft of freshly roasted coffee beans permeates through the chic cafe as soon as you open the door. UN likes their hand drip coffee. If you are not a coffee drinker, they have delicious chocolate cake! UN slowly sips his coffee, and I enjoy my chocolate cake while the snow falls gently from the sky, simply perfect!

  • Minato Marche Pier Bandai: Look no further, every and all kinds of fresh seafood to your heart’s desire. Oysters, crabs, roes, and sashimi, all of my favorites. There were lots of people shopping for gifts in preparation for the New Year. We had so much seafood that I hope our cholesterol level is not through the roof!

  • Benkei Pier Bandai: If I come back again, I would get a ticket here first, and then go to Minato Marche pier next door. It’s a conveyor belt sushi restaurant, but you can still custom order from the sushi chef. The seafood is as fresh as it gets. The miso crab soup is not to be missed, but a bit disappointed by the sushi rice (isn’t this Niigata?), maybe because we were so in love with the sushi rice from the night before.

  • Hakusan Shrine: Located inside Hakusan park, nearby is the cultural center and music hall. The shrine sells omamoris of many Japanese cartoon characters, such as Hello Kitty, and Rilakkuma.

  • Suzaka Soba Niigata Station: The soba noodle is hands down the best I’ve ever had! I would’ve ordered an extra portion if we didn’t already have a lot of food to eat! You definitely do not want to miss this when you visit Niigata!

  • Gokurakuyu Meike: It got so cold at night that we decided to find an onsen bathhouse. Turned out to be a wise decision. The bathhouse is right in front of a bus station, no need to walk too many steps in the snow.

  • Sasadango: We like standing in line! Once we saw the queue, it didn’t take long for UN to assume his position (even though we don’t know what people were buying). Turned out it was one of the top three delicacies of Niigata - sasadango! Wrapped in bamboo leaves, stuffed with red bean paste, best enjoyed while it’s still hot, and was one of my favorites in Niigata.

Day Three

We took the JR to Echigo Yuzawa, a hot spot for skiers and snowboarders from around the world. We came here for the hot spring!

  • Echigo Yuzawa Station: Station houses a sake onsen! You can also find huge onigiris here, perfect for carb loading before a ski trip. But both UN and I think that other than big portions and affordable prices, there really isn’t another draw for us, probably we will not get it again.

  • Kiyotsu Gorge: This place is truly magical! Nature combined with modern art, definitely a treat to all of your senses, so wish we could visit this place in every season to capture all of its glories. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

  • Matsunoyama Onsen Izumiya: Amazing food and relaxing onsen, it’s a wonderful thing to stay in an onsen ryokan in wintertime. I’m in love with staying at Japanese ryokans. Soaking in onsen and watching the snow fall from our windows, how did we get so lucky to live in Japan!

Day Four

As the snow continued to fall outside our window, we were reluctant to leave this place. After we got up, UN and I went straight to the onsen and got another soak in. We wouldn’t leave until we are fully warmed!

Our last trip of 2021, we are thankful beyond words! That day on our way to Kiyotsu Gorge, the snow was coming down so heavily that the visibility on the road was no more than 10 feet. UN drove slowly and carefully so we didn't skid, but I fed him the wrong direction and we drove onto a private road covered in snow. As UN tried to back out, our car got stuck in the snow. We asked a nearby resident for help, and this very kind ojisan not only helped us dig our car out of the snow, he even invited us into his home and grilled fresh mochi for us. As we were leaving, he gave us more mochi to make sure we don’t drive on an empty stomach. I wish our Japanese was much better so we could express our gratitude properly!

On Base Taxi from Naha Airport (for future reference)

  • Okito 098-946-5477

  • Chubu 098-929-1818

  • Urizun Jumbo Taxi 098-850-0129

  • Meiho 098-937-2467

當我們吃到壽司之神次郎時，我就覺得一定要來日本產米大城新瀉玩。從來不愛吃飯的我，搬到日本幾乎天天吃飯。日本米怎麼能這麼香且軟度完美！新瀉絕對是隱藏版日本旅遊城市，上網爬文，資訊卻不豐富。這次來玩，全靠我的針灸師和Lonely Planet旅遊書上的資訊。

交通搭乘方法 

https://www.jreast.co.jp/multi/en/pass/eastpass_n.html

我們在網上買好JR East Pass（也能現場買），抵達成田機場直接轉JR。JR售票機器取票時，必須出示外國護照取票。我們大部分的旅途都是用JR East Pass，除了在新瀉市區和越後湯澤無法用，這方案非常划算。

第一天

前晚下飛機後在東京住一晚，住宿附近有好多我之前在地圖上作記號的餐廳。我們決定起床後要來UN一直想吃的炸牛排店和朋友推薦的台灣仙草店。吃飽後我們搭著新幹線到新瀉，一路上的風景很美。新瀉絕對是值得一直來的地方，真希望我們能待在這更久一點。

  • 牛かつもと村: 在疫情期間還是有長長的隊伍，記得提早來，這店真的便宜又好吃。1300日幣的限定午餐有130克的炸牛排、和配菜。三種吃法：特製山芥末、芥末和醬油、石鹽（我們的最愛）。桌前會有熱石板，能熱炸牛排。

  • 黑工號: 太久沒回台灣，看到台灣甜點就覺得好稀奇。我們點了燒仙草和豆花。可能是臺南人口味吧，豆花好像可以再甜一點（哈哈）！

吃飽喝足後，我們搭上新幹線前往新瀉。車程約兩小時，沿路山景和稻田雪景實在美翻。到了新瀉後，我們馬上到位在新瀉車站裡的Ponshukan試喝清酒。這清酒試喝店是大家極力推薦的，不但網路大力介紹，旅遊書也特別提到，連朋友都說這裡必去。

  • ぽんしゅ館: 500日幣試喝5種清酒，竟然讓我喝到有點茫！喜歡喝清酒的人，五杯可能不夠喝，但能在這挑出自己喜歡的清酒。之後再到餐廳點瓶大的！

  • せかい鮨: 來這裡一定要點Nodokuru Don！每一口都好美味，配上當地剛出產的新米，到現在我們都還好想念這一餐。UN那天點omakase， 我們也好喜歡。絕對是一家要來的餐廳！

第二天

這天我們應該要到佐渡島，但那時準備下大雪，飯店員工用很婉轉卻又堅持的口氣（非常日本人）建議我們改換行程。擔心我們的船會被取消而卡在佐渡島，所以我們臨時改變行程，把之前在地圖上標記的地方都列出來。

  • 紡ぐ珈琲と: 店裡濃濃咖啡香，UN很推薦店裡的手沖咖啡。不喝咖啡也沒關係，巧克力蛋糕也很棒！UN細細品嚐咖啡，我吃巧克力蛋糕，看著外面下雪，完美！

  • みなとのマルシェ ピアBandai: 想吃的海鮮應有盡有，新鮮生蠔、螃蟹、白子、生魚片，全是我愛的食物。剛好遇到準備過新年，人潮源源不絕，好多人來買送給親戚朋友的海鮮禮物，當然我們吃超多海鮮（血壓不會爆表吧！）

  • 佐渡廻転寿司弁慶: 下次來的話，我們會先來這排位置再到Minato Marche Pier買海鮮吃。雖然是家迴轉壽司店，客人能和壽司師傅點餐。海鮮非常新鮮，螃蟹味增湯必點，但壽司飯實在失望（這裡不是新瀉嗎？）也可能是前晚的壽司飯太香了！

  • 白山神社: 位在白山公園裡，附近有文化中心和演奏廳。神社裡賣很多日本卡通人物御守，像是Hello Kitty和Rilakkuma的圖案。

  • 須坂屋そば: 這蕎麥麵也太爽口了吧！實在很想多點一份，但我們還有好多食物要吃！絕對是來新瀉必吃，果然是有名的新瀉三物之一。

  • 極楽湯女池店: 晚上太冷，我們決定上網找澡堂。這絕對是明智的決定，實在太舒服了！澡堂位在公車站牌前，下車馬上能衝進店裡。

  • 笹糰子: 盲從夫婦就是愛排隊！我們看到一大排隊伍，就好奇上前排隊（完全不知道在賣什麼）！原來是新瀉三物其中一物，笹団子！竹葉包的和菓子，內餡是紅豆，打開熱呼呼香氣十足也十分有嚼勁，是我在新瀉的愛食之一。

第三天

這天我們搭車到越後湯池，好多旅客來這滑雪。我們這趟則是來泡溫泉！

  • 越後湯沢駅: 清酒溫泉就在這裡！車站裡也有小紅書推薦的爆彈飯糰，超大飯糰超適合滑雪前吃一顆，但我和UN都覺得除了份量大價錢便宜，實在不會回來關顧。除此以外，這裡也有500日幣的清酒試喝店。

  • 清津峡: 哇，美呆了！自然景色加上現代藝術，感官越來越震撼，好希望我們能把清津峡的四季都收進腦裡。強力推薦！

  • 松之山溫泉: 食物不但好吃，又有超舒服溫泉，大冬天能住溫泉旅館真是一大享受！我愛這種日式傳統溫泉旅館，外面下著雪，我們在室內泡溫泉，怎麼能這麼幸運住在日本！

第四天

窗外繼續飄著雪，真想繼續住在這！起床後，我和UN立刻去泡溫泉，讓全身都暖起來我們才願意離開。

2021最後一場旅行，除了感恩還是感恩！那天我們往清津峡的山路上，下著大雪，視線一片白雪（好美也好危險）！UN小心翼翼開車避免打滑，但我卻亂報路。開上一條完全沒被開雪機通路的地方，車子被卡住完全動彈不得。我們求助附近住戶，大叔實在太好人！不但幫我們除雪，還到附近找方法。不但如此，大叔還現烤熱騰騰的麻糬給我們吃。我們離開前，他還準備更多麻糬讓我們在路上不餓肚子！離開前一直說謝謝，但我們好希望我們能懂更多日文，告訴他我們有多感激！

那霸機場到美軍基地的計程車公司

  • 沖東交通 098-946-5477

  • 中部個人タクシー 098-929-1818

  • うりずんジャンボタクシー098-850-0129

  • 明豐タクシー 098-937-2467