Zamami Island 3 Days Plan | 三天兩夜座間味島

Found out last minute that UN gets Friday off, so we planned an impromptu weekend staycation. Finalized our scuba diving trip at Zamami island, reserved for diving, booked ferry and hotel tickets all within a matter of 24 hours! Thus began our quick 72 hour staycation. 

突然得知UN週五不用上班,我們最後一秒計畫的旅行,星期四上班時決定到座間味島潛水,立刻和潛店洽詢,馬上訂船票、飯店,星期五開始72小時旅行!

Transportation | 交通

At Tomari Port, you have the option of taking a fast boat (~ 1 hour) or regular ferry (~ 2 hours, + ¥400 if you bring a bike). Reserve by telephone, pay in person, and they accept credit cards. There’s parking lot available at the port, 3 days and two nights of parking costs us ¥3,600, cash only. 

在Tomari Port搭船,有快船(約一個小時)和一般船(約兩小時,多加400日幣能帶腳踏車)。電話預約,現場付款,接受信用卡。停車場三天兩夜約3600日幣,只收現金。

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Dining | 食

Marumiya 
432-2 Zamami, Shimajiri Bezirk, Okinawa 901-3402

For the size of this island, you have quite the option for restaurants. Selection ranges from American to Japanese foods, freshly squeezed juice and Okinawa soba. Our shuttle driver recommended this place to us. It seems like every restaurant on this island offers two-option lunch specials. Good thing UN and I tend to order different things so we can share. There are locals who dine here too, and they have English menu! This was our favorite restaurant on Zamami!

以這小島比例,餐廳選項算多,從美式到日式,鮮果汁到沖繩麵。我們的接駁司機推薦這家餐廳,的確不錯。似乎島上每家餐廳很愛推二選一的中午套餐,兩種選擇我和UN一人一種。而且很多當地居民也在這裡用餐,也有英文菜單,算是我們這次吃到最好吃的餐廳。

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Little Kitchen
29 Zamami, Shimajiri Bezirk, Okinawa 901-3402

Two-option lunch specials. We both agree the rice was better. This cafe has a familiar scene to those on Okinawa main island. It’s designs attract many tourists. Food-wise we prefer the one we had on the first day. 

午餐二選一,我們一致認為丼飯比較好吃。這類型餐廳很像本島會出現的感覺,也比較是專為觀光客而設計的。我們還是比較愛第一天的那家餐廳。

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青の海
〒901-3402 沖縄県島尻郡座間味村座間味 島

We walked past this restaurant on the first day. It’s blue exterior stands out among the white and gray houses surrounding it. We had the notion that most island foods are mediocre at best, but this trip to Zamami changed our minds. 

第一天就找到的餐廳,當然又是外觀吸引到我們。以前總覺得小島食物普通,但這次來座間味島後,大大改觀。

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Accomadation | 住宿

Kerama Beach Hotel
http://kerama-beach-hotel.com/

We used Go To Campaign to book hotel, it’s a Japanese subsidy program to promote intracountry travel. We saved 35% on hotel stay that included Japanese kaiseki breakfast and dinner for two night stay. The rooms were clean, and food was authentically Okinawan. The hotel has washers and dryers and areas to clean your diving equipments. They provide free beach towels and ikea bag. Shuttle bus takes you to popular places on the island. You can even stargaze by the beach at night right outside of the hotel. 

我們使用Go To Campaign訂住宿,是日本政府幫助旅遊業的優惠,以65折價訂到三天兩夜的一食二泊。房間相當乾淨,食物也很好吃。飯店有完整設備,潛水後能洗衣服和整理配備的地方。去海邊,飯店也會準備浴巾和袋子。想去不同景點,有飯店接駁車接送。還有,晚上能在外面看星星!

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Day One | 第一天

Fuzuzamami Beach 古座間味ビーチ
1743 Zamami, Shimajiri Bezirk, Okinawa 901-3402

Thank God we didn’t get bit by Titan Trigger Fish and we are safe and sound. We arrived in Zamami at noon, hotel sent a shuttle bus to pick us up. After checking in we immediately went to this Michelin green guide recommended must-visit beach in Okinawa. The water is crystal clear, you can see 30 feet down to the bottom by snorkeling alone! But we also encountered a potentially aggressive and dangerous fish. We didn’t know what it was at the time. We were swimming inside the swimming allowed zone, and a big fish swam towards us. We both thought it was very pretty, and we’ve never seen fish as big as the size of UN’s leg while snorkeling before. The fish was so close to us that we could even see its teeth. Didn’t think much of it. It wasn’t until we uploaded the video that our friend informed us what it was. We still think this was the best beach we’ve ever snorkeled at, but must be very careful!

我們先感謝神,讓我們平安無事,讓我們沒被魚咬!中午12點到座間味島,飯店接駁車就來接我們。把行李放好後我們直衝被米其林指南評選為來沖繩必去的海灘。這裡透明度滿分,浮潛直接能見底,但恐怖的是我們遇到會攻擊人的魚。浮潛時我們完全不知情,一直在規定能游泳的區域游泳,但有隻大魚(Titan Trigger Fish)和海蛇一直往我們方向游。當時覺得很好玩,浮潛這麼多次,從來沒見過有UN小腿一樣長的大魚。我們和那魚超靠近,還能清楚見到牙齒,但我們不以為意,覺得這裡的魚應該沒問題。殊不知把影片放到Instagram後,熟知海底魚類的朋友C告訴我們那魚會咬人,見到必須遠離。雖然我們認為那裡是最棒的浮潛點,但一定要小心!

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Day Two | 第二天

Joy Joy Diving
434-2 Zamami, Shimajiri Bezirk, Okinawa 901-3402

Our neighbor raves about diving in Zamami. We were not disappointed one bit. Visibility here is unparalleled. I felt like I was in Finding Nemo with all the sea turtles and fishes swimming around us. The corals were so beautiful that GoPro doesn’t do it justice. Our diving guide Joy Joy took us to to three dive spots: Sakubaru Kakurene、Agaizachi、Ama Beach Mae. Our first time spotting a very shy octopus. Boat dive is really relaxing, no need to drag a lot of heavy equipment. Our guide Taka-San would give us a brief before every dive, and our captain would make sure all of our equipments were working properly. What we saw under the water was exactly the same as what’s on their travel poster. No false advertisement here. 

我們鄰居很愛來座間味島潛水,也常常給我們看他拍的照片,期望非常高的我們完全沒失望。海底能見度真的誇張,一下水瞬間變成海底總動員。馬上見到一堆魚和海龜在旁邊游泳,而且一片珊瑚美到GoPro完全拍不出來這美度啊!這次Joy Joy Diving帶我們到3個潛點:Sakubaru Kakurene、Agaizachi、Ama Beach Mae,第一次看到非常害羞的章魚呢!船潛就是輕鬆,不需背裝備狼狽下水。我們的導遊Taka San會在下水之前介紹海況和路線圖,船長也會幫我們檢查氣瓶配備有沒有裝好。座間味島的旅遊宣傳海報和我在海底看到的一模一樣,完全沒有廣告不實(還更美!)

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Ama Beach 阿真ビーチ
〒901-3403 沖縄県島尻郡座間味村阿真

I don’t know where the energy came from, but after three dives, we came to Ama Beach to snorkel some more and look for more sea turtles. They say you can spot sea turtles during high tide here. In the summer the sea turtles would lay their eggs at this beach. The water was getting cold during the afternoon, but that didn’t bother UN, he jumped in the water immediately. Just as I was still adjusting to the water temperature, UN said he already saw sea turtles. I immediately swam towards him. Seeing a sea turtle never gets old. Snorkeling here is not as mesmerizing as at Furuzamami, but there’s sea turtles, so it’s definitely worth visiting. The sunset here is absolutely stunning, no wonder it’s a tourist favorite. 

不知道哪來的體力,潛水完我們帶著浮潛用具來阿真海灘繼續找更多海龜。這裡在漲潮時能在海裡看到海龜,聽說夏天還能看到海龜在岸上孵蛋。傍晚海水時有點冷,UN還是不以為意,直接跳進海裡。當我還在讓身體適應時,UN說他已經看到海龜,我立刻毫不猶豫直接往他的方向游去。雖然已經見過好幾次海龜,但還是意猶未盡。這裡浮淺不像古座間味海灘這麼迷人,但有海龜加持,我覺得還是要來一趟。尤其是這裡的夕陽,正翻了!難怪有許多國外觀光客指名一定要來這裡玩!

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Day Three | 第三天

We didn’t plan much for this day. Walked on the beach, enjoyed our lunch. In the afternoon we said goodbye to Kerama Blue. We thought Okinawa’s water is amazing, Kerama water is another level of beauty. You must make your way out here if you visit Okinawa. 

這天我們沒有特別安排,在海邊走。中午時找家餐廳慢慢的吃午餐。下午和人稱”Kerama Blue”的海說再見。從來不知道有這麼美的海,藍天白雲配上慶良間藍,來沖繩一定要來這裡玩。

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We had originally planned on taking our bike to Zamami so we can tour the whole island, but in true Brandy fashion, all the bike tickets have been sold out. Zamami “downtown” is pretty flat, you can explore the entire area on foot, and as for the road to Furuzamami and our hotel, the hills were steep. Our legs would not have survived those hills on bike. Next time we come, we plan on taking the water taxi to visit the neighboring even smaller islands as well as Tokashiki.

原本預計想帶腳踏車上船到座間味島騎車環島,但腳踏車票已賣光。抵達島時,市中心路非常平坦,很適合走路,但往古座間味海灘和飯店路上真的保證騎車會鐵腿。下次來,我們想做水上計程車到附近無人玩,也想到同是慶良間諸島的渡嘉敷島玩。

Blue Seal Ice Cream Flavor Guide | 沖繩 Blue Seal 口味清單攻略版

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We finished all Blue Seal flavors! I could’ve crossed this off my list earlier if it wasn’t for COVID, but I can finally share this with you now! Blue Seal is the most iconic ice cream chain in Okinawa. You can’t miss the big neon signs when you are driving along the 58 main road. “Born in America, raised in Okinawa”, Blue Seal opened its first on-base store in 1948 in Okinawa to sell American ice cream to American troops. In 1963, Blue Seal opened its first off-base store and became a local and tourist favorite. On the 10th and 20th of every month is Big Scoop Day, you get three scoops for the price of one! Just ¥350! If you forget it’s Big Scoop Day, you’ll be reminded by the long lines of people outside of Blue Seal. This flavor guide took over a year to compile, hopefully you find it useful the next time you visit Blue Seal! Use #BrandysBlueSealList to let me know your favorites!

我們吃完全部口味啦!要不是疫情關係,我們原訂年初就能達成這項計畫,但延遲了幾個月,現在終於能分享給你們了!Blue Seal是整個沖繩最有名的冰淇淋連鎖店,從機場小攤到沖繩路上Blue Seal超大霓虹燈招牌在路上閃爍,你絕不可能錯過這家冰淇淋店。”Born in America, raised in Okinawa”,原先是美國公司在1948年來沖繩美軍基地開店,當時只賣給美軍相關人士。到了1963年,Blue Seal開始在基地外開店,也變成沖繩必去景點之一。每個月10、20號 Big Dip Day 都有買一球送兩球的活動,只要350元日幣。在美軍基地附近的Blue Seal也能看到許多美國人排隊買冰淇淋。花了將近一整年的時間,我們終於能把Blue Seal口味清單送給你們!下次去Blue Seal吃冰時,可以參考一下!吃完記得在IG用#BrandysBlueSealList,讓我知道你們的想法!以下是我和UN的個人意見,希望你們會喜歡,Enjoy!

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BEST

  • Ryukyu Royal Milk Tea: if blue seal offers boba, this will be the best combination.

  • Okinawa Ta-Imo Cheesecake: ta-imo flavor overpowers the cheesecake flavor, but it has cheesecake chunks.

  • Coffee Affogato: right amount of Kahlua and coffee flavor. Exceeded our expectation! Perfecto!

  • Okinawa Salt Cookies: you have to try this Okinawa exclusive flavor!

  • Almond Pistachio: has almond chunks. The color looks artificial, but the flavor reminds me of Filipino Pandan.

  • Swiss Chocolate: tastes like Kit Kat! What do you think?

  • Mocha Almond Fudge: limited time offering. Has rich mocha flavor. Definitely worth the hype, and hopefully they can bring it back again!

  • Sugar cane: surprisingly good!

  • Chocolate Cookies Swirl: this is a yes, especially if you are a chocoholic, and my friends agree with me!

  • Beni-imo: if you never had taro in your life before, this is what taro tastes like. Perfect balance, and dose not taste artificial!

  • Ube: on the sweeter side, but this satisfies my palate.

  • Chocolate Chip: this one can be a bit controversial. A definite “best” for me, a “better” for UN.

  • Mango Tango: when it’s hot and humid, this one will be your best friend.

  • Chura Ichigo Milk: limited time offering! It tastes like my breakfast smoothie.

  • San Francisco Mint Chocolate: all right Blue Seal, I’ll give you the permission to claim it “San Francisco.”

  • Foremost Chocolate: less milk chocolate, more dark chocolate.

  • Foremost Strawberry: one of their original flavors. Didn’t disappoint us.

  • Foremost Vanilla: can'never go wrong with vanilla, right?

BETTER

  • Matcha: that dependable AYCE matcha ice cream.

  • Creme Brûlée: limited time offering. This is more like egg pudding than creme brûlée.

  • Vanilla and Cookies: where should I start? It’s a bit ringard.

  • Baked Sweet Potato: limited time offering. Tastes exactly like baked sweet potato with marshmallow bites. The reason we categorized this as “better” was because it tasted like cold sweet potato fries.

  • Strawberry Cheesecake: is it too cliche if I say “I try to like it, but…”

  • Sakura Annin: limited time offering. A bit too much almond extract. Creamy, and has pink flakes.

  • Ganache: limited time offering. So close to a ‘“best”! Chunky texture and good ol’ chocolate flavor, reminds us of Rocky Road.

  • Tiramisu: it’s good, but doesn’t have that wow effect. More like chocolate fudge with coffee ice cream instead of tiramisu.

  • Chocolate: can’t go wrong. good ol’ chocolate.

  • Shiquassa Sorbet: Okinawa lime. I’m curious about your opinion on this one!

  • Pineapple Sorbet: cane of frozen dole pineapple blended into icy.

  • Coconut: between “best” and “better”. Very creamy!

  • Tropical Marble: this is what guava juice should taste like. I guess blood orange, kiwi, and banana mixed together would taste like guava.

  • Vanilla: similar to foremost vanilla.

  • Strawberry: typical strawberry flavor.

GOOD

  • Blue Wave: kids’ favorite! Taste like marble soda.

  • Mango: sorbet texture. Not creamy, and has artificial taste.

  • Banana Susannah: taste like overripe banana.

  • Neapolitan: 3 flavors in one, I’m not so sure about this!

  • Passion Fruit Sorbet: is this hi-chew or ice cream? I’m confused!

  • Soy Cafe Au Lait: limited time offering. I’d say, you can skip this one!

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Labor Day Weekend 2020 | 勞動節長週末

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Shelter in place seems like it’s coming to an end. We can now dine out where outdoor seating is available, and we can do non-essential shopping. We can even travel by commercial ferry or airplane to nearby islands. This has gotta be the most awesome birthday gift for me. This past long weekend we were expecting the “storm of the decade”, so we made sure we went snorkeling before the typhoon hits. But the typhoon didn’t hit us straight on, and we even got to eat hot pot and watch Mulan. 

自主隔離終於到一段落,能在餐廳室外座位用餐,也能到商場逛街,還能坐飛機和船到沖繩離島。我的天啊,這根本是生日前最好的禮物!這長週末,有堪稱最強颱風來沖繩,我們把握能到海邊玩的時間去浮潛,但颱風路線走歪沒什麼太大影響。週日還吃火鍋看花木蘭。

Okuma Resort

Have you ever gotten dizzy from SUP and kayak? Have you ever seen anyone capsize while riding jet ski? Even though we only stayed here one night, this weekend was very extreme and entertaining. Our staycation at Okuma started with meeting up with our pastor’s family, who happened to be at northern Okinawa too, for dinner. UN and I went looking for stars at night, something we don’t get to see very often. I wish I had brought my tripod. 

你有聽過玩SUP和獨木舟玩到暈船過嗎?你有親眼看到水上摩托車翻船嗎?雖然只待一晚,但這週末也太刺激太好玩了!開啟完美Okuma Staycation,我們先是和剛好也在沖繩北邊的牧師一家人一起吃晚餐!晚上和UN在海邊追星,整片星星是我們在住家附近看不到的畫面,真希望那時有帶腳架!

On the second day, sea conditions improved a lot. We signed up for a couple aquatic activities. I finally got to do SUP! Still the waves after typhoon was a bit choppy, we got a little bit seasick from kayaking and SUP. 

第二天海況改善許多,我們排滿水上活動,我也終於能玩到SUP!但由於颱風過後,海況還不太穩定,我們划著SUP和獨木舟到暈船,一度需要跳下水裡清醒一下。

Our favorite and most impressionable activity has got to be jet ski. What an adrenaline rush. Another couple who started the same time as us flipped and capsized as they were attempting a sharp turn. That didn’t deter our racing spirit. We pedaled to the metal. Jet ski is a must try activity when you are at Okuma. Before leaving Okuma, we made reservation for the one room there that is so hard to make reservation for. Most ppl say you have to book it 6 months in advance. It’s the Ai Cottage, and it has its own private beach!

整個行程我們印象最深(也是最愛)是玩水上摩托車,超刺激超瘋狂。和我們同時間出發的另一對情侶,在我們還在研究如何飆車時竟然翻車。但完全不影響我們想當飆仔的心情,我們開始狂飆狂撞海浪,來Okuma一定又玩水上摩托車!離開Okuma前,我們訂到最難訂的房間,就是傳說需要六個月前訂好的AI Cottage,聽說有私人海灘!

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Kouri Shrimp

Time flies when you are having fun! After leaving Okuma, we stopped by a tourist favorite Kouri Shrimp over rice. They only do takeouts right now. You must wash your hands and wear your mask when ordering. We ate the Kouri Shrimp over rice by the beach and watched the sun set to end our long weekend. 

美好的時光總是過得特別快,下午離開Okuma後我們到觀光客必吃、疫情之前總是大排長龍的超有名蝦仁飯。目前只提供外帶,入店時必須戴口罩和擦乾洗手。我們帶著蝦仁飯到海邊欣賞黃昏,結束好玩的長週末。

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Thanks to COVID-19 we are able to truly enjoy Okinawa. But I still wish COVID-19 would go away soon! 

現在能好好認識沖繩這美麗的小島得感謝COVID-19,但COVID-19可以快點離開嗎?感謝感謝!