3 Days in Tokashiki Island | 三日遊渡嘉敷島

Kerama blue is truly beautiful no matter on cloudy or sunny days. Tokashiki is the biggest of the Kerama islands, but has only 400 residents. Life is simpler than the other Kerama islands. Blessed with beautiful beaches and scenes, but it also has a dark history. On the eve of Battle of Okinawa, American troops were getting ready to land on Tokashiki, the 315 residents were afraid of a massacre, decided to commit mass suicide by grenade instead. A tower and monument was erected to remember them. 

收集完慶良間藍，真的是陰天晴天都好美。渡嘉敷島是慶良間諸島裡最大島，但島上只有約四百多位居民，島上也比其他慶良間諸島更加純樸。渡嘉敷島有許多美麗海灘和風景，但也有一段非常黑暗的歷史，在Battle of Okinawa前夕，美軍準備登入島上備戰，但三百一十五位當地居民因擔心美軍的襲擊而決定集體自殺，在島上的北邊設立白玉之塔和集體自決跡地作為紀念。

Transportation | 交通

We didn’t book ferry ticket beforehand, purchased them on the day of. Not that many travelers during the week. From Tomarin port is only about an hour. 

我們沒預先訂船票，當天到港口買票。週間沒有很多人，所以我們不擔心船票會售光。和座間味島一樣在那霸Tamarin Port搭船，約一小時就能到。

Dining | 食

Thanks to my friend C for recommending restaurants to us. There aren’t many food options here. Most google searches turn out to be restaurants in Zamami or Naha. 

感謝朋友C介紹幾家餐廳，讓我們這趟旅行不用煩惱。這裡食物選項真的不多，在手機上找餐廳，出現的全是座間味島和那霸一帶。

Half 1/2 Time 
122 Aharen, Tokashiki, Shimajiri District, Okinawa 901-3502

An instagrammable restaurant, known for their steaks and giant (40 cm) hot dog. An American themed restaurant that is a rarity in Tokashiki. Eccentric is probably how I would describe it. 

離島還有網美餐廳，也有牛排和超大份熱狗。美式風格參雜一些很妙的裝飾品，小鎮上很難想像會有一間這樣的餐廳。

居酒屋 丸二
86 Aharen, Tokashiki, Shimajiri District, Okinawa 901-3502

Affordable and delicious. Each dish is around ¥500, generous portions, perfect for hungry scuba divers. Will definitely return. 

便宜又好吃！每盤幾乎只要500元日幣上下，份量也不小氣，很適合潛水完肚子餓來。下次來一定會再回來的店。

Sea Friend居酒屋
155 Aharen, Tokashiki, Shimajiri District, Okinawa 901-3502

Not satisfied with your first meal? Come here for some late night eats. Right next to our bed and breakfast. We came right before closing. Thankfully we were still served yakitori! 

前一頓吃不過癮，我們來民宿附設的居酒屋。謝謝老闆雖然關店了還是讓我們硬凹進去吃串燒，感謝感謝！

Cafe Sea Friend Jr. 
346 Tokashiki, 字 Tokashiki, Shimajiri District, Okinawa 901-3501

Is Tokashiki owned by Sea Friend? One of two restaurants near Tokashiki port, but quality is top notch! Oi-shi! 

這島被Sea Friend佔領了嗎，連島北邊也能看到他們！這是島北邊唯二的餐廳吧，即使如此食物還是很不錯，算是島上好吃的餐廳！

Accommodation | 住宿

Sea Friend
155 Aharen, Tokashiki, Shimajiri District, Okinawa 901-3502

My friend C helped us book lodging and diving! All in one dive shop and bed and breakfast. They also provide free shuttle to and from Tokashiki port. 

感謝朋友C幫我們訂住宿和潛水行程！潛店附設民宿還包自助式早餐，也有接駁車在港口接送。

Day One | 第一天

Aharen Beach 阿波連ビーチ

Didn’t plan much to do at Tokashiki. Just want to chill and relax! Aharen Beach is just 10 minutes walk from where we stayed. Came here to snorkel. Fishes are big, water crystal clear. But beware, UN saw Titan Trigger Fish again! Maybe it’s winter time in Okinawa, not that many tourists, which also means less restrictions at the beach. The whole beach was our playground. 

來渡嘉敷島沒特別安排行程，就想耍廢！民宿離阿波連海灘非常近，走路不到10分鐘。我們來這裡浮潛，魚一樣大隻，水一樣清澈。小心，UN又見到那會咬人的魚（Titan Trigger Fish）！可能是沖繩進入冬天了，人特別少，也沒有游泳管轄範圍，讓我們在大海裡到處游泳找魚玩。

Day Two | 第二天

Sea Friend Diving

Boat dive is so convenient (I probably said this many times!) After our guide briefed us on the dive plan, we jumped right in. First dive was near Tokashiku Beach, and second dive we went to a shipwreck. 

船潛就是方便（好像我說了很多次）！船到潛點後，教練Gin解釋海底下的狀況，我們馬上跳水下去。這次教練第一潛帶我們到Tokashiku 看魚，第二潛到南邊看一艘沉在水裡的船。

Day Three | 第三天

We rented a car to explore the rest of the island, drove from south to north and back. Although we didn’t plan out much details, we snorkeled the first day, scuba the second day, and hiked the last day. Quite productive wouldn’t you say!

這天我們租車遊遍整座島，從南開到北，還留了幾個景點下次來看。雖然說是耍廢行程，但我們第一天在海裡浮潛，第二天潛水，第三天爬山，不太軟爛吧！

After visiting two main islands of the Kerama, it’s hard to say which one is better. We like the food selection on Zamami, and the site seeing. Tokashiki is less commercial, preserved much of its remote island culture. Next time you can plan a four day three night trip to Kerama!

拜訪慶良間諸島的兩大島後，實在很難分勝負。我們喜歡座間味島的多種食物選項，完整的景點規劃。渡嘉敷島則非常不商業化，保有離島該有的風格。下次可以來個四天三夜慶良間諸島遊！

Zamami Island 3 Days Plan | 三天兩夜座間味島

Found out last minute that UN gets Friday off, so we planned an impromptu weekend staycation. Finalized our scuba diving trip at Zamami island, reserved for diving, booked ferry and hotel tickets all within a matter of 24 hours! Thus began our quick 72 hour staycation. 

突然得知UN週五不用上班，我們最後一秒計畫的旅行，星期四上班時決定到座間味島潛水，立刻和潛店洽詢，馬上訂船票、飯店，星期五開始72小時旅行！

Transportation | 交通

At Tomari Port, you have the option of taking a fast boat (~ 1 hour) or regular ferry (~ 2 hours, + ¥400 if you bring a bike). Reserve by telephone, pay in person, and they accept credit cards. There’s parking lot available at the port, 3 days and two nights of parking costs us ¥3,600, cash only. 

在Tomari Port搭船，有快船（約一個小時）和一般船（約兩小時，多加400日幣能帶腳踏車）。電話預約，現場付款，接受信用卡。停車場三天兩夜約3600日幣，只收現金。

Dining | 食

Marumiya 
432-2 Zamami, Shimajiri Bezirk, Okinawa 901-3402

For the size of this island, you have quite the option for restaurants. Selection ranges from American to Japanese foods, freshly squeezed juice and Okinawa soba. Our shuttle driver recommended this place to us. It seems like every restaurant on this island offers two-option lunch specials. Good thing UN and I tend to order different things so we can share. There are locals who dine here too, and they have English menu! This was our favorite restaurant on Zamami!

以這小島比例，餐廳選項算多，從美式到日式，鮮果汁到沖繩麵。我們的接駁司機推薦這家餐廳，的確不錯。似乎島上每家餐廳很愛推二選一的中午套餐，兩種選擇我和UN一人一種。而且很多當地居民也在這裡用餐，也有英文菜單，算是我們這次吃到最好吃的餐廳。

Little Kitchen
29 Zamami, Shimajiri Bezirk, Okinawa 901-3402

Two-option lunch specials. We both agree the rice was better. This cafe has a familiar scene to those on Okinawa main island. It’s designs attract many tourists. Food-wise we prefer the one we had on the first day. 

午餐二選一，我們一致認為丼飯比較好吃。這類型餐廳很像本島會出現的感覺，也比較是專為觀光客而設計的。我們還是比較愛第一天的那家餐廳。

青の海
〒901-3402 沖縄県島尻郡座間味村座間味 島

We walked past this restaurant on the first day. It’s blue exterior stands out among the white and gray houses surrounding it. We had the notion that most island foods are mediocre at best, but this trip to Zamami changed our minds. 

第一天就找到的餐廳，當然又是外觀吸引到我們。以前總覺得小島食物普通，但這次來座間味島後，大大改觀。

Accomadation | 住宿

Kerama Beach Hotel
http://kerama-beach-hotel.com/

We used Go To Campaign to book hotel, it’s a Japanese subsidy program to promote intracountry travel. We saved 35% on hotel stay that included Japanese kaiseki breakfast and dinner for two night stay. The rooms were clean, and food was authentically Okinawan. The hotel has washers and dryers and areas to clean your diving equipments. They provide free beach towels and ikea bag. Shuttle bus takes you to popular places on the island. You can even stargaze by the beach at night right outside of the hotel. 

我們使用Go To Campaign訂住宿，是日本政府幫助旅遊業的優惠，以65折價訂到三天兩夜的一食二泊。房間相當乾淨，食物也很好吃。飯店有完整設備，潛水後能洗衣服和整理配備的地方。去海邊，飯店也會準備浴巾和袋子。想去不同景點，有飯店接駁車接送。還有，晚上能在外面看星星！

Day One | 第一天

Fuzuzamami Beach 古座間味ビーチ
1743 Zamami, Shimajiri Bezirk, Okinawa 901-3402

Thank God we didn’t get bit by Titan Trigger Fish and we are safe and sound. We arrived in Zamami at noon, hotel sent a shuttle bus to pick us up. After checking in we immediately went to this Michelin green guide recommended must-visit beach in Okinawa. The water is crystal clear, you can see 30 feet down to the bottom by snorkeling alone! But we also encountered a potentially aggressive and dangerous fish. We didn’t know what it was at the time. We were swimming inside the swimming allowed zone, and a big fish swam towards us. We both thought it was very pretty, and we’ve never seen fish as big as the size of UN’s leg while snorkeling before. The fish was so close to us that we could even see its teeth. Didn’t think much of it. It wasn’t until we uploaded the video that our friend informed us what it was. We still think this was the best beach we’ve ever snorkeled at, but must be very careful!

我們先感謝神，讓我們平安無事，讓我們沒被魚咬！中午12點到座間味島，飯店接駁車就來接我們。把行李放好後我們直衝被米其林指南評選為來沖繩必去的海灘。這裡透明度滿分，浮潛直接能見底，但恐怖的是我們遇到會攻擊人的魚。浮潛時我們完全不知情，一直在規定能游泳的區域游泳，但有隻大魚（Titan Trigger Fish）和海蛇一直往我們方向游。當時覺得很好玩，浮潛這麼多次，從來沒見過有UN小腿一樣長的大魚。我們和那魚超靠近，還能清楚見到牙齒，但我們不以為意，覺得這裡的魚應該沒問題。殊不知把影片放到Instagram後，熟知海底魚類的朋友C告訴我們那魚會咬人，見到必須遠離。雖然我們認為那裡是最棒的浮潛點，但一定要小心！

Day Two | 第二天

Joy Joy Diving
434-2 Zamami, Shimajiri Bezirk, Okinawa 901-3402

Our neighbor raves about diving in Zamami. We were not disappointed one bit. Visibility here is unparalleled. I felt like I was in Finding Nemo with all the sea turtles and fishes swimming around us. The corals were so beautiful that GoPro doesn’t do it justice. Our diving guide Joy Joy took us to to three dive spots: Sakubaru Kakurene、Agaizachi、Ama Beach Mae. Our first time spotting a very shy octopus. Boat dive is really relaxing, no need to drag a lot of heavy equipment. Our guide Taka-San would give us a brief before every dive, and our captain would make sure all of our equipments were working properly. What we saw under the water was exactly the same as what’s on their travel poster. No false advertisement here. 

我們鄰居很愛來座間味島潛水，也常常給我們看他拍的照片，期望非常高的我們完全沒失望。海底能見度真的誇張，一下水瞬間變成海底總動員。馬上見到一堆魚和海龜在旁邊游泳，而且一片珊瑚美到GoPro完全拍不出來這美度啊！這次Joy Joy Diving帶我們到3個潛點：Sakubaru Kakurene、Agaizachi、Ama Beach Mae，第一次看到非常害羞的章魚呢！船潛就是輕鬆，不需背裝備狼狽下水。我們的導遊Taka San會在下水之前介紹海況和路線圖，船長也會幫我們檢查氣瓶配備有沒有裝好。座間味島的旅遊宣傳海報和我在海底看到的一模一樣，完全沒有廣告不實（還更美！）

Ama Beach 阿真ビーチ
〒901-3403 沖縄県島尻郡座間味村阿真

I don’t know where the energy came from, but after three dives, we came to Ama Beach to snorkel some more and look for more sea turtles. They say you can spot sea turtles during high tide here. In the summer the sea turtles would lay their eggs at this beach. The water was getting cold during the afternoon, but that didn’t bother UN, he jumped in the water immediately. Just as I was still adjusting to the water temperature, UN said he already saw sea turtles. I immediately swam towards him. Seeing a sea turtle never gets old. Snorkeling here is not as mesmerizing as at Furuzamami, but there’s sea turtles, so it’s definitely worth visiting. The sunset here is absolutely stunning, no wonder it’s a tourist favorite. 

不知道哪來的體力，潛水完我們帶著浮潛用具來阿真海灘繼續找更多海龜。這裡在漲潮時能在海裡看到海龜，聽說夏天還能看到海龜在岸上孵蛋。傍晚海水時有點冷，UN還是不以為意，直接跳進海裡。當我還在讓身體適應時，UN說他已經看到海龜，我立刻毫不猶豫直接往他的方向游去。雖然已經見過好幾次海龜，但還是意猶未盡。這裡浮淺不像古座間味海灘這麼迷人，但有海龜加持，我覺得還是要來一趟。尤其是這裡的夕陽，正翻了！難怪有許多國外觀光客指名一定要來這裡玩！

Day Three | 第三天

We didn’t plan much for this day. Walked on the beach, enjoyed our lunch. In the afternoon we said goodbye to Kerama Blue. We thought Okinawa’s water is amazing, Kerama water is another level of beauty. You must make your way out here if you visit Okinawa. 

這天我們沒有特別安排，在海邊走。中午時找家餐廳慢慢的吃午餐。下午和人稱”Kerama Blue”的海說再見。從來不知道有這麼美的海，藍天白雲配上慶良間藍，來沖繩一定要來這裡玩。

We had originally planned on taking our bike to Zamami so we can tour the whole island, but in true Brandy fashion, all the bike tickets have been sold out. Zamami “downtown” is pretty flat, you can explore the entire area on foot, and as for the road to Furuzamami and our hotel, the hills were steep. Our legs would not have survived those hills on bike. Next time we come, we plan on taking the water taxi to visit the neighboring even smaller islands as well as Tokashiki.

原本預計想帶腳踏車上船到座間味島騎車環島，但腳踏車票已賣光。抵達島時，市中心路非常平坦，很適合走路，但往古座間味海灘和飯店路上真的保證騎車會鐵腿。下次來，我們想做水上計程車到附近無人玩，也想到同是慶良間諸島的渡嘉敷島玩。