5 Farmer's Market I Love in Okinawa

Welcome to Okinawa! If you’re new to the island, welcome to Brandy’s List! A few weeks ago I was chatting with a friend who is about to move to Okinawa. One of the topics was where I shop for groceries. San-A, Big Express, Kanehide, Co-op, Ryubo are all popular chain supermarkets in Okinawa. Allow me to introduce some local super markets that are similar to farmer’s markets in the US and others that remind me of market places in Taiwan.

JA Okinawa

www.ja-okinawa.or.jp/fm/market/
Address: 字登川 ２６９７−２, Okinawa, 904-2142

When we first moved here, I attended some Japanese cultural classes on base, and one of the classes was on local grocery shopping. Our teacher took us to JA, and introduced us to local ingredients and ways to prepare them. JA is Okinawa’s farmer’s market, you can find them everywhere here. I shop at JA often because they have some of my favorite Okinawan vegetables. 

Happy More

happymore.jp
Address: 1 Chome-11-247-1 Shimashi, Ginowan, Okinawa 901-2213

Can’t talk about supermarkets without mentioning Happy More, a favorite of me and my friends! Their yams and tomatoes are fresh and sweet, also worth noting is their freshly squeezed juice. Getting to Happy More requires superb skills navigating through the narrow alleys of Okinawa, but I always come away fully loaded. Their reward card lets you accumulate points that you can use for redeeming juices.

Banana Stand

www.facebook.com/BananaStandOkinawa/
Address: 2 Chome-9-2 Chibana, Okinawa, 904-2143

Every military spouse knows this grocery store! Banana stand is mostly patronized by Y plates (US military affiliated license plates), but you do see locals shop here sometimes. At the peak of the pandemic last year, grocery shopping was one of the few remaining joyous tasks to look forward to, because Banana Stand became a place of random rendezvous between friends. As its name suggests, you can always count on them carrying fresh bananas here. Their vegetables are affordable and portions are generous, but occasionally you may find some duds. Great if you are a vegetable connoisseur.

Yumeseika

Address: 5 Chome-21-4 Misato, Okinawa, 904-2153

Like Banana Stand, another favorite of military spouses! During persimmon season, UN and I would come here at least twice a week to stock up on persimmons and we would just eat our hearts out. Japanese persimmons are plump, juicy and sweet. They even have freshly squeezed juices and smoothies!

Hallab

hallab.pecori.jp
Address: 3 Chome-4-1 Mekaru, Naha, Okinawa 900-0004

Similar to Happy More, they carry lots of organic foods. At first I was attracted by online photos of their interior design, and I decided to come and take some pictures. But I ended up finding sauces with no additives! I’m hooked! They carry only seasonal ingredients, including raw bamboo shoots in the spring.

Compared to American supermarkets, Japanese groceries are on the expensive side. On Facebook, one of the most frequently asked questions is if food costs more here than back in the US. That’s correct! But here you can also find groceries that you won’t find in America. Okinawa has many other great supermarkets, I hope you like this intro to Japanese grocery shopping. Tune in for more on farmer’s market!

Chinese Translation

幾個禮拜前和一位準備搬來沖繩的朋友聊天，其中聊到在沖繩哪裡買菜。San-A、Big Express、Kanehide、Co-op、Ryubo等等都是沖繩有名的連鎖超市，這次來介紹一下比較像美國農夫市場和台灣菜市場比較類似的地方。

JA Okinawa

www.ja-okinawa.or.jp/fm/market/
地址：字登川 ２６９７−２, Okinawa, 904-2142

剛搬來時，美軍基地提供認識日本生活的課程，其中一堂是逛超市。老師帶著我們到JA買菜，介紹沖繩當地食材和烹煮方式，讓我們這群剛從美國搬來沖繩的軍人和軍眷們能快速適應環境。JA是沖繩當地農會超市，整個島從南到北都能找到JA。美國人稱JA農夫市場（farmer’s market）是我在沖繩每次買菜必逛超市，裡面賣的長生百葉也是我最愛的沖繩蔬菜之一。Google Maps請搜尋：farmer’s market，能快速找到各地JA超市。

Happy More

happymore.jp
地址：1 Chome-11-247-1 Shimashi, Ginowan, Okinawa 901-2213

講到超市絕對不能不提Happy More，朋友群的最愛！這裡的地瓜和番茄超甜超新鮮，現打果汁也非常棒。雖然往Happy More的方向有夠窄（還離家有點遠），根本是挑戰我的開車技巧，但每次我都滿載而歸。他們有會員卡，集點能換果汁。

Banana Stand

www.facebook.com/BananaStandOkinawa/
地址：2 Chome-9-2 Chibana, Okinawa, 904-2143

軍眷裡無人不曉的蔬菜店！每次去必有一堆Y Plate（美軍相關人士的車牌），但也鮮少看到當地日本人在這逛。去年疫情期間，當我們只剩下買菜為樂時，每次來必見到朋友，像是我們防疫期間唯一能在基地外見面的方式了。如同英文名一樣，這裡永遠有新鮮香蕉能買。這裡的菜份量大也便宜，但有時會碰到雷，非常適合對蔬果有研究能挑出好又嫩的青菜最適合來。我最常在這裡買根莖類食材（非常便宜），拿來大量煮湯完全不心疼。

Yumeseika

Address: 5 Chome-21-4 Misato, Okinawa, 904-2153

和Banana Stand一樣，軍眷最愛！柿子盛產時，這裡讓我和UN天天享受日本柿，大顆又甜。有個Facebook團專門讓美軍們能分享買到蔬果價錢和位置，這裡常常上榜。他們也有現打果汁，前陣子還有柿子汁！

Hallab

hallab.pecori.jp
地址：3 Chome-4-1 Mekaru, Naha, Okinawa 900-0004

類似Happy More，專賣有機食品。原先來這裡純粹看到網路上店面擺設很吸引我，想來看看順便拍照，沒想到在這找到不含添加物的醬料，完全深深收買我。店裡全賣當季食材，春天還有生竹筍。

比起美國當地超市，日本食材偏貴，剛來沖繩的人常在Facebook上問到是否這裡食材比美國貴好幾倍。沒錯，但在這能吃到好多美國吃不到的蔬菜。沖繩還有好多很棒的超市，希望你們喜歡這篇沖繩超市介紹，下集我會在介紹更多農夫超市！

Ie Island One Day Trip | 伊江島一日遊

Trust me, this trip will drain you out! We took the first ferry at 9:00 am from Motobu Port. We live about an hour and a half from the port, and we’re worried we might not find parking, so we left at 7. After 30 minute boat ride we arrived at Ie Island. Didn’t plan much, only wanted to ride bicycle around the island, buy some brown sugar peanuts, climbed Mt. Gusuku and eat Ie beef. Ie Island produces peanuts, and is shaped like a peanut, so it’s nicknamed Peanut Island. Ie Island also raises Wagyu grade beef, we saw many cow farms there. 

絕對是一場累到讓你回程昏睡，坐下來完全起不來的行程！搭第一班九點的船從本部港離開，由於家離港口一小時，又怕車位停滿，我們早上七點出門。三十分鐘船程到伊江島，沒有特別計畫，只想騎腳踏車環島、買我喜歡的黑糖花生糖、登上伊江島最高點Mt. Gusuku和吃伊江島和牛。伊江島專產花生，島的形狀也像花生，所以又稱花生島。伊江島和牛也是這裡的特產，到處看到飼養伊江和牛的養牛場。

Transportation | 交通

Our friends rented bicycles next to Ie Port. We brought our own. If you don’t want to tire yourself out, I recommend renting a car or motorbike. You can also buy a ferry ticket to take your car with you here. Reserve your tickets ahead of time. Call 0980-49-2255 to reserve. Ferry tickets are paid with cash only, but car and bicycle tickets can be paid with credit card. 

朋友們在伊江島港口旁能租腳踏車，而我們帶著自己腳踏車來。如果不想像我們一樣筋疲力盡，建議租汽車或機車，也能買汽車船票帶自己的車來環島。船票建議先預約，預訂船票電話0980-49-2255。船票只收現金，腳踏車票能收卡。

Dining | 食

Where’s our Ie beef? Most restaurants here serve Okinawa soba, we were most disappointed with not having Ie Wagyu grade beef during this trip. 

我們的伊江和牛呢？島上的餐廳大部分以沖繩麵為主，我們竟然撲空沒吃到伊江島和牛，是行程裡美中不足的地方。

Sights | 景點

After you disembark from the ferry, there’s cycling map that tells you the recommended cycling routes. We started by turning left at the main road (but veered off and didn’t really follow the route). Along the way the roads looked flat, but were actually quite tedious. Occasionally we would come across a steep downslope and had a hard time braking and stopping. We ended the biking trip at the tallest point on the island: Mt. Gusuku.  

下船後，附近有腳踏車路線圖，能完整走遍伊江島。我們往地圖左邊開始繞（大部分沒照著地圖走），沿途有很多看起來似乎平坦簡單騎起來卻消耗全身體力的路線，偶爾遇到大下坡快到幾乎煞不住。最後我們用全島最高點Mt. Gusuku為最後景點。

After we got back to Motobu, we went to a Touhua place at Motobu Town Market. This place is much better than the Taiwanese Touhua place that we found in Okinawa. We got there a bit late and they ran out of taro balls. Next to the Touhua place is a cafe that sells Taiwanese wheel cakes (with mochi filling!) Cafe owner Tamaki-San is very friendly and even speaks a little Chinese! 

下船後朋友帶我們到本部市場裡的一家豆花店，這家豆花店比以前在沖繩標榜台灣豆花更好吃，可惜我們太晚到芋圓賣光了！豆花店隔壁有家咖啡屋有賣台灣車輪餅（有麻糬的耶），老闆Tamaki San超熱情還會講中文！

Ie Island on the weekend is quite peaceful, reminds me of rural parts of Tainan. Cycling and hiking drained all of our energy but it was a fulfilling day! Riding with friends and singing together like no one else is around, stopping every now and then to take pictures with cows and goats. I like this kind of getaway from the busy and noisy everyday life. 

週末的伊江島很舒服也非常安靜，很有台南鄉下的味道。一整天騎車環島還爬山很累但非常好玩，和朋友們在田野裡邊騎車邊唱歌，隨時停下來看伊江島和牛和路邊小羊，短暫隔絕資訊雜音的生活。

Zamami Island 3 Days Plan | 三天兩夜座間味島

Found out last minute that UN gets Friday off, so we planned an impromptu weekend staycation. Finalized our scuba diving trip at Zamami island, reserved for diving, booked ferry and hotel tickets all within a matter of 24 hours! Thus began our quick 72 hour staycation. 

突然得知UN週五不用上班，我們最後一秒計畫的旅行，星期四上班時決定到座間味島潛水，立刻和潛店洽詢，馬上訂船票、飯店，星期五開始72小時旅行！

Transportation | 交通

At Tomari Port, you have the option of taking a fast boat (~ 1 hour) or regular ferry (~ 2 hours, + ¥400 if you bring a bike). Reserve by telephone, pay in person, and they accept credit cards. There’s parking lot available at the port, 3 days and two nights of parking costs us ¥3,600, cash only. 

在Tomari Port搭船，有快船（約一個小時）和一般船（約兩小時，多加400日幣能帶腳踏車）。電話預約，現場付款，接受信用卡。停車場三天兩夜約3600日幣，只收現金。

Dining | 食

Marumiya 
432-2 Zamami, Shimajiri Bezirk, Okinawa 901-3402

For the size of this island, you have quite the option for restaurants. Selection ranges from American to Japanese foods, freshly squeezed juice and Okinawa soba. Our shuttle driver recommended this place to us. It seems like every restaurant on this island offers two-option lunch specials. Good thing UN and I tend to order different things so we can share. There are locals who dine here too, and they have English menu! This was our favorite restaurant on Zamami!

以這小島比例，餐廳選項算多，從美式到日式，鮮果汁到沖繩麵。我們的接駁司機推薦這家餐廳，的確不錯。似乎島上每家餐廳很愛推二選一的中午套餐，兩種選擇我和UN一人一種。而且很多當地居民也在這裡用餐，也有英文菜單，算是我們這次吃到最好吃的餐廳。

Little Kitchen
29 Zamami, Shimajiri Bezirk, Okinawa 901-3402

Two-option lunch specials. We both agree the rice was better. This cafe has a familiar scene to those on Okinawa main island. It’s designs attract many tourists. Food-wise we prefer the one we had on the first day. 

午餐二選一，我們一致認為丼飯比較好吃。這類型餐廳很像本島會出現的感覺，也比較是專為觀光客而設計的。我們還是比較愛第一天的那家餐廳。

青の海
〒901-3402 沖縄県島尻郡座間味村座間味 島

We walked past this restaurant on the first day. It’s blue exterior stands out among the white and gray houses surrounding it. We had the notion that most island foods are mediocre at best, but this trip to Zamami changed our minds. 

第一天就找到的餐廳，當然又是外觀吸引到我們。以前總覺得小島食物普通，但這次來座間味島後，大大改觀。

Accomadation | 住宿

Kerama Beach Hotel
http://kerama-beach-hotel.com/

We used Go To Campaign to book hotel, it’s a Japanese subsidy program to promote intracountry travel. We saved 35% on hotel stay that included Japanese kaiseki breakfast and dinner for two night stay. The rooms were clean, and food was authentically Okinawan. The hotel has washers and dryers and areas to clean your diving equipments. They provide free beach towels and ikea bag. Shuttle bus takes you to popular places on the island. You can even stargaze by the beach at night right outside of the hotel. 

我們使用Go To Campaign訂住宿，是日本政府幫助旅遊業的優惠，以65折價訂到三天兩夜的一食二泊。房間相當乾淨，食物也很好吃。飯店有完整設備，潛水後能洗衣服和整理配備的地方。去海邊，飯店也會準備浴巾和袋子。想去不同景點，有飯店接駁車接送。還有，晚上能在外面看星星！

Day One | 第一天

Fuzuzamami Beach 古座間味ビーチ
1743 Zamami, Shimajiri Bezirk, Okinawa 901-3402

Thank God we didn’t get bit by Titan Trigger Fish and we are safe and sound. We arrived in Zamami at noon, hotel sent a shuttle bus to pick us up. After checking in we immediately went to this Michelin green guide recommended must-visit beach in Okinawa. The water is crystal clear, you can see 30 feet down to the bottom by snorkeling alone! But we also encountered a potentially aggressive and dangerous fish. We didn’t know what it was at the time. We were swimming inside the swimming allowed zone, and a big fish swam towards us. We both thought it was very pretty, and we’ve never seen fish as big as the size of UN’s leg while snorkeling before. The fish was so close to us that we could even see its teeth. Didn’t think much of it. It wasn’t until we uploaded the video that our friend informed us what it was. We still think this was the best beach we’ve ever snorkeled at, but must be very careful!

我們先感謝神，讓我們平安無事，讓我們沒被魚咬！中午12點到座間味島，飯店接駁車就來接我們。把行李放好後我們直衝被米其林指南評選為來沖繩必去的海灘。這裡透明度滿分，浮潛直接能見底，但恐怖的是我們遇到會攻擊人的魚。浮潛時我們完全不知情，一直在規定能游泳的區域游泳，但有隻大魚（Titan Trigger Fish）和海蛇一直往我們方向游。當時覺得很好玩，浮潛這麼多次，從來沒見過有UN小腿一樣長的大魚。我們和那魚超靠近，還能清楚見到牙齒，但我們不以為意，覺得這裡的魚應該沒問題。殊不知把影片放到Instagram後，熟知海底魚類的朋友C告訴我們那魚會咬人，見到必須遠離。雖然我們認為那裡是最棒的浮潛點，但一定要小心！

Day Two | 第二天

Joy Joy Diving
434-2 Zamami, Shimajiri Bezirk, Okinawa 901-3402

Our neighbor raves about diving in Zamami. We were not disappointed one bit. Visibility here is unparalleled. I felt like I was in Finding Nemo with all the sea turtles and fishes swimming around us. The corals were so beautiful that GoPro doesn’t do it justice. Our diving guide Joy Joy took us to to three dive spots: Sakubaru Kakurene、Agaizachi、Ama Beach Mae. Our first time spotting a very shy octopus. Boat dive is really relaxing, no need to drag a lot of heavy equipment. Our guide Taka-San would give us a brief before every dive, and our captain would make sure all of our equipments were working properly. What we saw under the water was exactly the same as what’s on their travel poster. No false advertisement here. 

我們鄰居很愛來座間味島潛水，也常常給我們看他拍的照片，期望非常高的我們完全沒失望。海底能見度真的誇張，一下水瞬間變成海底總動員。馬上見到一堆魚和海龜在旁邊游泳，而且一片珊瑚美到GoPro完全拍不出來這美度啊！這次Joy Joy Diving帶我們到3個潛點：Sakubaru Kakurene、Agaizachi、Ama Beach Mae，第一次看到非常害羞的章魚呢！船潛就是輕鬆，不需背裝備狼狽下水。我們的導遊Taka San會在下水之前介紹海況和路線圖，船長也會幫我們檢查氣瓶配備有沒有裝好。座間味島的旅遊宣傳海報和我在海底看到的一模一樣，完全沒有廣告不實（還更美！）

Ama Beach 阿真ビーチ
〒901-3403 沖縄県島尻郡座間味村阿真

I don’t know where the energy came from, but after three dives, we came to Ama Beach to snorkel some more and look for more sea turtles. They say you can spot sea turtles during high tide here. In the summer the sea turtles would lay their eggs at this beach. The water was getting cold during the afternoon, but that didn’t bother UN, he jumped in the water immediately. Just as I was still adjusting to the water temperature, UN said he already saw sea turtles. I immediately swam towards him. Seeing a sea turtle never gets old. Snorkeling here is not as mesmerizing as at Furuzamami, but there’s sea turtles, so it’s definitely worth visiting. The sunset here is absolutely stunning, no wonder it’s a tourist favorite. 

不知道哪來的體力，潛水完我們帶著浮潛用具來阿真海灘繼續找更多海龜。這裡在漲潮時能在海裡看到海龜，聽說夏天還能看到海龜在岸上孵蛋。傍晚海水時有點冷，UN還是不以為意，直接跳進海裡。當我還在讓身體適應時，UN說他已經看到海龜，我立刻毫不猶豫直接往他的方向游去。雖然已經見過好幾次海龜，但還是意猶未盡。這裡浮淺不像古座間味海灘這麼迷人，但有海龜加持，我覺得還是要來一趟。尤其是這裡的夕陽，正翻了！難怪有許多國外觀光客指名一定要來這裡玩！

Day Three | 第三天

We didn’t plan much for this day. Walked on the beach, enjoyed our lunch. In the afternoon we said goodbye to Kerama Blue. We thought Okinawa’s water is amazing, Kerama water is another level of beauty. You must make your way out here if you visit Okinawa. 

這天我們沒有特別安排，在海邊走。中午時找家餐廳慢慢的吃午餐。下午和人稱”Kerama Blue”的海說再見。從來不知道有這麼美的海，藍天白雲配上慶良間藍，來沖繩一定要來這裡玩。

We had originally planned on taking our bike to Zamami so we can tour the whole island, but in true Brandy fashion, all the bike tickets have been sold out. Zamami “downtown” is pretty flat, you can explore the entire area on foot, and as for the road to Furuzamami and our hotel, the hills were steep. Our legs would not have survived those hills on bike. Next time we come, we plan on taking the water taxi to visit the neighboring even smaller islands as well as Tokashiki.

原本預計想帶腳踏車上船到座間味島騎車環島，但腳踏車票已賣光。抵達島時，市中心路非常平坦，很適合走路，但往古座間味海灘和飯店路上真的保證騎車會鐵腿。下次來，我們想做水上計程車到附近無人玩，也想到同是慶良間諸島的渡嘉敷島玩。